The Secret of Range Creek: Waldo Wilcox and the Fremont Indians

For more than 50 years, a man named Waldo Wilcox guarded a secret treasure on his ranch in eastern Utah: possibly the greatest single collection of artifacts that belonged to the Fremont Indian tribe, a people who mysteriously disappeared 700 years ago. Today, the former Wilcox ranch represents one of the most significant archaeological treasure troves in North America, but one that now is imperiled by two simple facts: Waldo Wilcox is no longer standing guard, and the rest of world knows what is there.

In 1951 Waldo Wilcox purchased 4,200 acres (1,700 ha) of hardscrabble land 130 miles (210 km) southeast of Salt Lake City---an area that includes Range Creek Canyon---for the purpose of raising cattle. Shortly thereafter, he and his family discovered dozens of perfectly preserved Indian encampments and hundreds of pristine artifacts---precisely the sort of treasures that archaeologists would seek to investigate and looters would try to steal. Waldo Wilcox decided to prevent the exploitation and destruction of these artifacts (a form of cultural property), as best he could, by actively defending his land against intruders and publicity seekers for more than five decades.

Fewer than 25 years before Wilcox purchased his ranch, an expedition from Harvard University had traveled through the same region, uncovering evidence of a theretofore unidentified Native American tribe. The expedition's leader, Noel Morss, dubbed these people the Fremont after the Fremont River that supplied water to the area. In the years between Morss's original identification and Wilcox's land purchase, precious little evidence was uncovered to further illuminate how the Fremont lived or why this centuries-old culture inexplicably vanished some time around the year 1300.

Indeed, there was very little evidence that the Fremont were a people distinct from their better-known contemporaries, the Anasazi tribe, who also mysteriously disappeared before European settlers ventured into the American Southwest. Even today, only four types of artifacts can uniquely be qualified as belonging to the Fremont: a rod-and-bundle type of basketry that no other Native American tribe employed; an unusual type of moccasin fashioned from deer hock; trapezoidal depictions of human beings in personal artifacts, pictographs, and petroglyphs; and a thin, gray-clay type of pottery. Of these artifacts, only the pottery is consistently sturdy enough to survive the harsh southwestern climate. Thus, concentrations of Fremont artifacts such as those found at Range Creek are of incalculable value.

What makes the Fremont so intriguing---besides their mysterious disappearance---are their attempts at agriculture in the arid Utah climate. While primarily a hunter-gatherer people, the Fremont in general and the Range Creek Fremont in particular sometimes cultivated a unique breed of "dented" corn that could withstand the rigors of the climate. Moreover, the Fremont often stored their hard-won corn harvests in heavily defended granaries atop sheer cliffs and mesas. Range Creek boasts several well-preserved Fremont granaries, some in nearly inaccessible nooks within the rocks, offering a glimpse into the Fremont's precarious life as embattled farmers, desperately working to protect their winter stores against rivals by hiding their harvests within natural geographic defenses.

Ignorance of the Range Creek Fremont encampments protected the artifacts for years, and for much of their known existence Waldo Wilcox stood guard, keeping the vast majority of the Range Creek archaeological cornucopia intact until his recent sale of the land to a charitable trust. In summer 2004, the state of Utah (which now holds the title to the Wilcox ranch) finally opened select portions of Range Creek to the press, displaying the quiet and fragile secrets that survive thanks to Waldo Wilcox's lifelong vigil. While the subsequent publicity has drawn increased attention from looters, scientists now at least have a fighting chance to preserve and record the Range Creek finds before, as happened with the Fremont tribe itself, they succumb to the forces of history.


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